Fans of the blog might remember that we treated our colony for mites back in August with Hop Guard, a newly legal concoction derived from the hops plant that’s supposed to kill varroa mites while going easy on the bees.
Fans of natural mite treatment might be hoping for good news.
After the designated 30 days it takes for Hop Guard to work its magic, I opened up the hive to take a sample for testing. You test samples because mites are so small and dispersed, it’s almost impossible to tell at a glance if you have an infestation.
Bearing that in mind, check this out. The brown dots the blue arrows are pointing to are varroa mites, clinging to the backs of their host bees. Being able to spot two of them so easily is a bad sign.
The red arrow is pointing to a worse sign, though. This bee almost certainly has deformed wing virus, a disease that’s almost always connected with a heavy mite infestation.
Here’s another shot of the deformed wing bee. She probably won’t live longer than 48 hours, and she’ll likely be driven from the hive before then. Bees don’t offer much in the way of healthcare, and will evict sick members of the colony to try to prevent outbreaks.
With lowering hopes, I scooped a half cup sample of bees into a jar. My assistants for the day were my boyfriend Ben and his brother Matt, who was visiting from New York. I like to think this was just as exciting as anything the big city has to offer.
We dumped some powdered sugar on the bees and shook them up. Then we inverted the jar so the sugar and the mites would slip through the mesh lid onto a piece of paper. Before treating with Hop Guard, we counted 4 mites in our sample. So by now we ought to have fewer…
Oh boy. I counted up to 38 and got lost.
So did the Hop Guard work? It sure doesn’t seem like it.
Has the mite population literally grown ten times? …Maybe. When taking a sample for a mite test, it’s important to select bees from a frame of uncapped brood. (The mites grow primarily on the bee larvae, so their population is always densest in brood comb). When I took my pre-treatment sample, I used a capped brood frame, which means most of the mites were sealed away under wax. (In other words, I screwed up). This time I used an uncapped frame, meaning I got the technique right, but the numbers were bound to be artificially higher.
But ten times higher is a lot. Particularly after treatment. If the hop guard knocked the mite population down at all, it wasn’t much.
So what do we do now? We treat again. But not with Hop Guard. Hop Guard had its chance. We’ve already installed some strips of Apivar, a tried and true chemical application that by all accounts should do the job.
In a few weeks we’ll check again and see if it has.
I had big plans.
I was going to harvest pounds of extra wax from our beehive. I was going to have candles for days.
But it wasn’t to be.
Basically, what I did was make bug soup and then throw it away very carefully.
This is my tale of woe.
A while ago our poor spare frames were overrun with wax moth. It’s just what happens when you leave used frames unprotected. I’ve heard that a strong colony will clean up infested frames without a problem, but I didn’t quite have the faith to put it to the test. Instead, I brought them home to salvage the wax.
I pulled all the wax from the frames and got a pretty impressive pile.
My main concern was with filtering the bugs. Because yes, this wax was riddled with wax moth larvae. I decided to melt it down in a pot of water, bugs and all, and filter it in its liquid state.
Beeswax burns extremely easily, so rather than melting it directly on the bottom of the pan, I thought I’d let it dissolve into the water, strain it, and let it separate back out as it cooled.
As the wax melted, I managed to fit all ten frames’ worth into the pot. After letting it stew for a while, it was time to strain it into molds.
I rubber banded a few layers of cheesecloth over the tops of some plastic containers. In this tiny sample, we can see three gently simmered wax moth larvae.
This was a horrible job. Beeswax sticks to everything it touches and is famously hard to clean up. I was forever setting down cardboard and running out of space and sacrificing utensils.
To make matters worse, it was extremely hot. The pot was hard to handle, and I learned the hard way that some plastic is less heat-tolerant than others.
I finally managed to get four containers full of strained wax water. I set them outside to cool off. The cat went out to investigate and came back wax-dipped.
I left the containers out overnight while I googled how to remove wax from a cat. (If you don’t word your search carefully, you get very different results).
In the morning I went out to investigate.
One was knocked over. They were all full of rainwater.
And while my hopes of the wax separating and rising to the top did technically play out, it wasn’t all I’d dreamed it would be.
This is it. My entire harvest. It weighs 0.65 ounces.
So what went wrong? I think it was the filtering. While I managed to keep the bugs out of the final product, I kept most of the wax out with them. It all clung together on top of the cheese cloth, and the wax molecules that snuck through with the water were purely coincidental.
A decent amount also wound up on the cat.
If I ever do this again (and to do so will take a tremendous amount of courage), I’m implementing a strict no-bug policy. Maybe there’s a good way to filter them out, but I sure don’t know it.
Stay tuned for a post about making a single votive candle.
I’ve also posted this on my personal blog. Go have a look!
Thank you to everybody who came out to the workday on Saturday! As you may have heard, we have a new member who’s already helping to make the garden a better place. This hawk swooped down and nabbed one of our ever-present rats. Let’s hope she sticks around!
I’m sorry I didn’t get any pictures of the workday bustle. I was busy with a bee-mergency. (I’ll be here all week).
A few days ago I had every intention of checking on the bees. When I went to open the plastic bin we keep the bee suits in, however, I found some unwelcome guests.
It wasn’t hard to find the source of the problem. We were storing the bee suit bin on top of another bin with some old frames of comb in it. And those frames, wouldn’t you know it, were completely full of wax moths.
Wax moths are a perpetual threat if you’re storing used comb without bees to protect it. Fans of the blog may remember that our hive was infested with wax moths last spring, after it was abandoned. Wax moths are rarely a problem in active hives, because the bees will drive them out before they can take hold. But if the comb is unprotected, like in the empty hive or the shed, moths are almost certain to move in.
Despite their name, wax moths don’t actually eat wax. A frame of unused foundation in the same bin was untouched. What the moths like is the thin, protein-rich skin that’s left behind on the cell walls by the bee larvae when they emerge as fully formed bees. Think of it like a bee amniotic sac. Moths lay their eggs in the wax, and those eggs hatch into grubs that burrow through the wax, feeding on these old protein skins.
Because they’re disgusting.
I thought the bin we were keeping the frames in was tight enough to keep the moths out. I thought wrong. Here you can see a few of those little grubs on the move.
And here are some adult moths.
Will and I dragged the bins outside to clear them out. We wiped out all the bugs and their bizarrely stretchy webbing.
The moths clearly started in the bin with the frames, but they’d been migrating. I found a few little cocoons in the bee suits.
I picked off all the cocoons I could find and shook everything out. For good measure, I took the suits home and washed them. I sprayed the bins down with the hose and let them dry in the sun. I’m pretty sure we’re moth-free.
As we were working, a few of the bees came over from the hive to see what we were up to. This one found a single globule of honey on one of the frames.
Some others flocked to the honey that dripped out of the frames onto the ground. They will have drunk as much as they could hold, then carried it back to the hive to store.
This wasp showed up for the free food, too.
So what became of the frames? I didn’t want to keep them around so full of moths, but I couldn’t stand the idea of throwing away all that good wax. I brought the frames home and tried to render the wax in my kitchen.
We have a hawk now, and while we were there today he caught and carried away one of our many rats.He roosts on the gourd trellis and the telephone pole nearby and watches for the rats, which are very active around the north compost area.He is not shy if you wan’t to take his picture.>> Ask gardeners to leave the terrace alone so that he can catch more rats.No more weeding on the terrace for now!
And here are a couple friendly reminders in general:
- Remember to place spready/ seedy weeds in brown bags instead of compost bins
- DO NOT put weeds in trash barrels per the city.
- At day’s end, put filled brown bags near the trash (but as just stated, not in) the trash cans in parkin lot.
- Replace any tools into the (now-tidied) shed
- Be sure to call out for anyone inside the shed before you lock it
- Let the last person in the garden know you are leaving
- Lock up every gate and shed at day’s end.
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